A visit across the Guadalquivir River and you will soon realise that it is more than just the Instagram famous Calle Betis of Triana Seville. This small and lively neighbourhood teemed with a gypsy spirit, flamenco flair along with some of the best food is a whole world waiting to be explored. A visit to emblematic Triana, is well worth your time.
Just across the picturesque Isabel II bridge (Triana Bridge) over the ancient Guadalquivir River is a place that exudes a village feel of passionate people, great food and longtime traditions such as ceramics and flamenco. The cradle of flamenco is an endearing neighbourhood, reflective of the hospitality and warmth Southern Spain is famous for. Embedded in rich history, this enchanting small barrio is one that ought to be discovered a little at a time.
Triana is not a barrio that has that many spectacular sights and is not always the top of a visitor’s list to Seville. However, the Triana neighbourhood is a working class neighbourhood, an authentic area interlaced with small streets which gives great pleasure to explore. It has a local market, lots of little shops and tapas bars. A great place to stay if you do not want to be quite as central.
If you choose to stay here, this barrio is great for veritable experiences where you could make use of the evenings to explore the family-run tapas bars and sightsee the city during the day. It takes about 20-minutes to walk to the historic centre affording beautiful views of Seville’s skyline along the way. You may want to stay for several days and explore its secrets at every corner, little at a time as one visit was not enough for us.
About Triana Seville
While Seville has a reputation for passion of the flamenco and blood and dust of the bullring, Triana has often been regarded as being on the wrong side of the river, and its delinquent cousin.
Triana prides itself as a barrio that parties the hardest with its vibrant cafés and bars scene — their dinner time is at 10 and continues well after midnight!
Triana Seville has a rich history. The home of ceramics, embodying the spirit of exploration, albeit a controversial one and then there is the Spanish Inquisition.
The exclusive ceramics industry played a huge part in this community’s history going way back to Roman times. Alongside this, nearly all of the sailors for the New World came from this side of the river while the money came from the palace on other side of the River.
Speak to a Trianeros and they will have you believe that their accent is similar to many of the South American countries. They will even claim to have invented the music and the flamenco here.
The Spanish Inquisition was a period of dark history in Spain that went on for three centuries. Remnants from this period still exists and is mentioned below.
The good, the bad and the ugly – whatever it may be, the people of Triana carry it with great pride on their shoulders. While history plays an important part, the place is alive with its own identity and traditions as well.
Want to know more about the history of Triana?
Hear it first hand from a professional tour guide as you taste some of the very best and authentic tapas in the historic Triana district.
People of Triana
The residents of this colourful barrio has a strong sense of local identity. They call themselves trianeros, and identify their residence in Triana and not as sevillanos or living in Seville! Vibrant Triana is traditionally rooted in pottery and its exclusive Azulejos tile making along with its own festivals, and spirited flamenco culture.
An overview of the gypsy communnity in Triana
Alongside the spirited community of trianeros, the barrio became home to the descendants of Roma, a gypsy community. They moved to parts of Southern Spain (Cadiz, Jerez and Seville) from the east in the 15th and 16th centuries. Their way of life was communal, with lodgings arranged around a multipurpose courtyard that served as a meeting place for their exuberant parties and soulful dancing. Their enigmatic lifestyle soon woke the rest of Seville to a powerful and passionate Spanish dance, known as flamenco.
When they say, flamenco was invented in Seville, they are really referring to Triana. This thriving gypsy community of interlinked Roma families produced many great flamenco performers and music.
Alongside their soulful art of flamenco, the gypsy community of Triana also became potters, sailors, and bullfighters. The neighbourhood was famously known as the Gypsy Quarter of the Andalusian capital city.
Over the years and as tourism began to enrich the city, the local council decided in the 1960s to develop a housing estate where the gypsies could go and live. These accommodations were built on the southern edges of Seville where the gypsy community continues to live today.
Although the demographics is altered, the authentic spirit of its outdoor living room is very much present along the bar-filled Calle Betis.
Want to feel the music, passion and the vibrant expression of a flamenco performance?
Opt for a guided tour of Tapas and Flamenco experience in Triana.
With an overview of the neighbourhood and its people, let us now explore the best of Triana.
1 | EXPLORING THE BEST OF TRIANA NEIGHBOURHOOD SEVILLE
Begin your journey by crossing the iconic Isabel II Bridge from Seville’s Santa Cruz that grants many photo opportunities of Seville’s beautiful skyline. The iconic bull-fighting ring, Torre del Oro, Seville Cathedral and the Giralda Tower all present a stunning sight. The walk also creates poignant moments to pause and imagine the sailors of Triana embarking on the voyage of ‘Discovery’ waving farewell to their families, never knowing if they will ever return.
Just as you leave the bridge, on your right is a small strikingly beautiful chapel distinguished by its colourful tower. Capilla Virgen del Carmen.
1.1 | Capilla Virgen del Carmen
Capilla Virgen del Carmen stands as a symbol of Triana on the edge of the beautiful Puente del Isabella II (Isabella II bridge). Unlike a traditional chapel, the Capilla del Carmen appear like a charming couple — two towers standing side by side with one slim and tall and the other short and rounded with exquisitely colourful tiled dome. The brickwork appears old, but it is relatively new, built in 1928.
Capilla del Carmen is the successor to a previous chapel that had to be destroyed when expansion of the Triana Bridge became necessary. The endearing chapel was designed by the Spanish architect, Aníbal González Álvarez-Ossorio who is also responsible for the design of the resplendent Plaza de España.
The external features are remarkable. Above the domed tower sits a ‘lantern’ and it has eight green columns and horseshoe arches. At the highest point of the tower is a large metal cross. In contrast, the tall and slender tower seems similar to the Giralda tower of Catedral de Santa María de la Sede. This slender tower houses a bell-tower, has an octagonal shape and a weather vane at the very top.
Inside the chapel, is the much worshipped 18th century painting of the Virgen del Carmen and Child. She wears a striking silver crown. Sailors pray to the saint before setting sail for the safe return of their voyage as the Virgen del Carmen is the patron saint and protector of fishermen and sailors.
Georgina: When we visited Triana, the chapel was closed but you can peer inside from the iron gate at the front.
Address: Puente de Isabel II, 23, 41010 Sevilla, Spain
1.2 | Triana Market
Living next to Capilla del Carmen, is Triana Market (Mercado de Triana). A world away from the touristic heart of Seville, Triana Market sits on the ruins of what was San Jorge Castle, the headquarters of the historic Spanish Inquisition.
The spot itself seemed to have attracted traders long before that, with records stretching back to Moorish times where this riverside hub was an important trading point.
Today, this wonderful covered market is more like a farmers’ market exuding a joyful racket of fruit, veg and meat stalls. It offers small restaurants famous for its authentic Andalusian tapas, handmade local crafts, and even a cooking school!
Where: C. San Jorge, 6, 41010 Sevilla, Spain
When: Mon – Sat: 9 am to 5 pm | Sun: 12 noon to 5 pm
Check here for up-to-date opening times.
1.3 | Visit the Museum and Ruins of Castillo San Jorge, Triana Seville
This little museum in the ruins of Castillo San Jorge is an easy to miss spot. It is tucked away down some steps next to Triana Market, leading to the basement of the market, overlooking River Guadalquivir.
The museum brings to life the events following the Christian Reconquest of Spain. The chilling stories of thousands of Jews who converted but were suspected of heresy were imprisoned and tortured over centuries during the Inquisition, from 1481 to 1785. Their stories are told in each room.
The Castillo de San Jose is said to date from the Middle Ages and was the seat of the Inquisition for three centuries, where prisoners were captured and tortured.
Castillo San Jorge was demolished at the end of the Inquisition period and a market built over it. The remains of the castle were rediscovered in 1990, and restored to house a museum in its current form.
Where: Mercado de Triana, C. San Jorge, 6, 41010 Sevilla, Spain or Plaza del Altozano, s/n.
1.4 | Altozano Square Triana Seville
The Altozano Square is a public space in Triana Seville, located at the end of Isabell II bridge. It’s history dates back to medieval times where travellers come to before embarking on their river journey across the Guadalquivir River. The square still serves as a meeting point for visitors to this part of Seville.
Surrounded by interesting architecture, the square is home to a monument erected in honour of Juan Belmonte, a famous bull-fghter with close links to Triana. There is another statue in honour of Flamenco.
Like much of Seville, Triana was and remains a Catholic stronghold. Some of Seville’s stunning churches are found in Triana neighbourhood. The following two are well worth a visit.
1.5 | The Sailors’ Chapel Triana | Capilla de los Marineros
The Sailors’ Chapel in Triana is a beautiful 18th century little church that sits on a peaceful street parallel to the river and is home to a beautiful altarpiece. Esperanza de Triana is an intricate depiction of the Virgin Mary. The Sailors’ Chapel is home to the ‘Brotherhood of Hope.’
Every year Seville celebrates Semana Santa (Holy Week/Easter Week), one of the most important events in Andalusia. This is an event where the Brotherhood of Hope, dressed in hoods, robes and gloves run a planned procession through the streets of Seville, carrying the Esperanza de Triana.
Where: Calle Pureza, 51
1.6 | The Church of Santa Ana, Triana Seville | Iglesia de Santa Ana
Iglesia de Santa Ana dates back to 13th century (1276) and was the first church built in Seville after the Reconquista in 1248 by King Alfonso X. Typical of its time, the Church of Santa Ana is of Gothic-Mudejar architecture with high-vaulted interior and rich in Christian imagery. This is the most famous church in Triana.
There are a couple of legends associated with the Church of Santa Ana, which you may like to know:
1 | Tradition has it that if a woman kicks the 16th century ‘El Negro’ tomb, she will surely find a husband. The tomb is decorated with beautifully painted ceramic tiles depicting an incumbent knight. However, one wonders how could a woman possibly find her husband when the tomb is protected by a glass case and she can’t kick it!
2 | Another legend entails that a child baptised at the Church of Santa Ana will receive good voice for flamenco singing.
Where: Plazuela de Santa Ana, Calle Pelay Correa
When: Monday to Thursday > from 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. | Friday > from 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. | Monday to Friday > 5:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.
1.7 | Visit the Centro Cerámica Triana
Famous for its Azulejos ceramics world over, the barrio is home to Centro Cerámica Triana. Housed in an old tile factory, it provides a fascinating insight into the history of its ceramic tile industry that originated during the Roman era. Exhibiting a series of brick-lined kilns and an elegant collection of tiles, (some from Moorish times), the centre tells the story of how the craft has been adapted and interpreted over the years, embedding it with the wider history of Triana and its people. The visit begins with an audio visual presentation and helps set the museum into context.
The Centro Cerámica Triana has ceramics in all shapes and sizes, from tiles, bowls to keyrings offering a colour-fest of glazes and patterns. Items are reasonably priced. A popular item to buy as souvenir is to have your house number or name printed on its beautiful Azulejos tiles – timeless memory of Triana.
Where: C. Callao, 16, 41010 Sevilla, Spain
When: Mon – Sun > 10 am to 7:30 pm
1.8 Calle Betis Triana
Calle Betis is not just a famous street in Triana Neighbourhood but it is one of the most vibrant, colourful and much loved street in Seville. The street runs parallel to the course of River Guadalquivir and offers a magnificent panorama of the monuments in the historic quarter of Seville. The night time views are absolutely one to go for – the shimmering golden light shinning off Torre de Oro, Plaza de Toros, the Cathedral and the Giralda.
Calle Betis is protected against possible flooding by a raised wall. The buildings are narrow and colourful, each with a different colour creating an iconic view of the neighbourhood. The street is lined with outdoor cafes.
This much loved part of Triana neighbourhood is a perfect place to immerse in the Trianeros culture – bar hop till you drop!
1.9 | Streets to meander for moments of calm
Despite the spirited aura of Triana, there are a some streets that offer solitude and moments of calmness if you ever feel the need to get away momentarily from the bustle of the neighbourhood.
Calle Pelay Correa, Calle Torrijos and Calle de la Pureza are peaceful havens with soft scented orange trees and whitewashed houses.
1.10 | Experience the vibrancy of Flamenco in Triana
Visiting the cradle of flamenco and not experiencing one? No way!
You many find impromptu flamenco performances but the best way to truly enjoy one with all its vibrancy and passion is to experience it in person at the Baraka Sala Flamenca. Learn the history of flamenco, how tradition, modernity come together and in an exquisite setting of Mudejar architecture. An authentic performance of tradition, and symbol of the flamenco heritage.
2 | WHERE TO STAY IN TRIANA
Triana Seville is a neighbourhood where you could live like a local. To do so, you may want to rent an apartment or an aparthotel where you could shop at Triana Market for fresh produce and cook like a local. However, if apartments are not your thing, you could easily book into one of the highly rated hotels.
2.1 | Ribera de Triana Hotel
This accommodation is rated 4-stars, overlooks the Guadalquivir River and offers impressive views of Seville city. It houses a rooftop pool, a spa, free WiFi and air-conditioned rooms. This property is ideally located in the heart of the barrio and within 15 to 20 minutes to the Alcazar and the Cathedral.
Ribera de Triana Hotel | Plaza de Chapina, S/N, Triana, 41010 Seville
2.2 | Zenit Seville
Highly recommended for its location, this accommodation is within 10 minutes of Maestranza Bullring. Decorated in Andalusian style, the property offers spacious air conditioned rooms, with wooden floors.
Zenit Seville | Pages del Corro, 90, Triana, 41010 Seville
2.3 | Casas de Sevilla – Apartamento Puente de Triana
This large apartment is suitable for family stays and comes with private parking facility. It overlooks the Guadalquivir River with fabulous views of the historic heart of Seville. Located at just 450 yards of Isabella II Bridge, means you are at the very heart of the Triana neighbourhood.
Casa de Sevilla – Apartmento Puente de Triana | Castilla 16, Triana, 41010 Seville
3 | WHERE TO EAT
Selecting a specific place to stop and eat is challenging! This quintessential neighbourhood across the river serves up great tapas and traditional dishes.
3.1 | Triana Market
Mercado de Triana is best for traditional tapas and you could try Bar Las Golondrinas which is highly rated.
Walk a little further to Casa Cuesta C/Castilla 1 for an authentic atmosphere, great tapas, Spanish stews and seafood. This restaurant was founded in 1880.
3.2 | Calle Pureza
If you are visiting the Church of Santa Ana, there is a tavern nearby, Bar Santa Ana. This local bar serves up local dishes bull tail and grilled sandwiches: Calle Pureza, 82.
3.3 | Calle Betis
While Calle Betis is great for bars and restaurants along with views of the historic city over the Guadalquivir River and bar-hopping which we found to be fun, but when it came to meals we opted to explore Calle San Jacinto.
3.4 | Calle San Jacinto
Calle San Jacinto is the main commercial street here and is home to great local businesses but you will find the street welcoming with plenty of tables and chairs inviting outdoor dining.
La Valiente | Dine-in Only | C. San Jacinto, 12, 41010 Sevilla.
If you have a sweet tooth, head to Pasteleria Los Angelitos de Santa Isobel in Calle San Jacinto for some really good fresh cream cakes.
Another of their flagship store is located at C. Alcaicería de la Loza, 29, 41004 Sevilla
4 | Best ways to experience Triana
This delinquent cousin of Seville is easily explored with the aid of a GPS and in 4 hours. It’s small, compact and best explored by meandering around. If you have more time and if you could stay here, it would be even better for an enhanced experience.
Having said that, if you only have a few hours and want to know all about its history, visit the best of this part of the River and experience an authentic flamenco, perhaps a guided tour will be most helpful, or a cooking lesson within the market makes for timeless experience as well. Both tours are offered by our trusted partners, Get Your Guide. Booking is seamless and you can even do so on your phone.
I hope this post has been helpful in planning your visit to Triana. You may find the following articles on Seville helpful also.
What to do in Seville: Suggestions
OUR BEST SELLING ACTIVITIES FOR SEVILLE
1 | For an all-round experience of the sultry city, opt for a food walking tour
2 | Buy a combo ticket to visit the Royal Alcazar, Seville Cathedral + Giralda.
3 | Enjoy timeless experiences on the Guadalquivir River.